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Specifications

Unsaponifiable Matter in Shea Butter

The 4–11 % that isn't fat: what shea's unsaponifiable fraction contains, how it is measured, and why formulators specify it.

Summary

Unsaponifiable matter is the part of a fat that does not form soap when boiled with alkali — non-glyceride compounds such as triterpene alcohols and their esters, hydrocarbons, tocopherols and sterols. Shea butter's fraction is unusually large, typically 4–11 % (reports up to 17 %) versus under 1–2 % for most edible fats. This fraction is the main reason shea is valued in cosmetics, and refining lowers it only slightly.
Unsaps at a glance
Unit
% (mass)
Test method
AOCS Ca 6a-40 (ether) · Ca 6b-53 / ISO 18609 (hexane) · ISO 3596
Literature range
4–11 (can reach 17) %
Main components
Triterpene cinnamates and acetates; karitene; tocopherols; phytosterols
Effect on other tests
Depresses SAP; mineral-oil adulteration inflates the result
Effect of refining
Slight reduction
Control lever
Identity / raw-material origin

What unsaponifiable matter is

Saponification converts triglycerides and free fatty acids into soap; whatever remains soluble in ether or hexane afterwards is “unsaponifiable”. In most fats that is sterols, tocopherols and a little hydrocarbon — under 1–2 %. In shea a large triterpene fraction sits on top — hence 4–11 %.

Vitellaria paradoxa kernels synthesise triterpenes abundantly; the fraction varies with region, season and tree. See Vitellaria paradoxa and shea-producing regions. Unsaponifiable matter is the non-fat part of shea butter — and at 4–11 % it is several times larger than in almost any other vegetable fat, which is why shea is specified by name rather than substituted.

What the fraction contains

  1. Triterpene alcoholsα-amyrin, β-amyrin, lupeol, butyrospermol — largely as cinnamate and acetate esters, the dominant sub-fraction
  2. KariteneA hydrocarbon characteristic of shea
  3. TocopherolsMainly α-tocopherol; content varies strongly with origin
  4. PhytosterolsMinor sterol fraction
  5. Other hydrocarbons and polyphenolsTrace catechins and related compounds

The bulk of shea's unsaponifiable fraction is triterpene cinnamates and acetates, with a shea-specific hydrocarbon, karitene, and variable tocopherols. Triterpene esters and tocopherols are the compounds most studied for skin-related activity in the scientific literature; cinnamate esters absorb in the ultraviolet range. That is a description of the chemistry, not a product claim.

Reference values by grade

Unsaponifiable matter (%) by shea butter grade — EMI Agro does not publish a standing contractual range; the batch COA states the measured value
GradeValue%What it usually indicatesEMI supply status
Grade AThe unsaponifiable fraction — triterpene alcohols and related minors — is why formulators specify shea rather than a cheaper hard fat.Confirm on the batch COA
Grade BThe unsaponifiable fraction — triterpene alcohols and related minors — is why formulators specify shea rather than a cheaper hard fat.Confirm on the batch COA
Grade CThe unsaponifiable fraction — triterpene alcohols and related minors — is why formulators specify shea rather than a cheaper hard fat.Confirm on the batch COA
Refined N-RBDThe unsaponifiable fraction — triterpene alcohols and related minors — is why formulators specify shea rather than a cheaper hard fat.Confirm on the batch COA

Values vary by origin, season and method (ether vs hexane). Use published figures for orientation; ask for the measured batch value.

The published range is wide because origin, season and tree differ. A buyer specifying “high unsaponifiables” should ask for the measured value and method on the COA.

Reference points — unsaponifiable matter of shea butter and other fats (published values, not EMI limits)
FatUnsaponifiable matter%
Shea butter4–11 (can reach 17)
Cocoa butter≤ 0.35–0.7 (typical literature)
Mango butterTypically under 2
Palm oil≤ 1.2 (Codex maximum)
Coconut oil≤ 1.5 (Codex maximum)
Most refined edible oils< 1–2

Ether and hexane methods give slightly different results. See shea versus cocoa butter, shea versus mango butter and shea versus synthetic emollients.

How unsaponifiable matter is measured (AOCS Ca 6a-40 / ISO 3596 / ISO 18609)

Saponify about 5 g of sample with ethanolic KOH under reflux; extract the unsaponifiable fraction with diethyl ether (Ca 6a-40, ISO 3596) or hexane (Ca 6b-53, ISO 18609); wash free of soap; evaporate; dry and weigh; subtract any free fatty acid carried over.

Unsaponifiable matter (%) = 100 × (mresidue − mFFA correction) / W

Hexane methods are safer; results are close but not identical — the COA must state which was used. Incomplete saponification falsely raises the result; emulsions and incomplete washing distort it. This is a half-day gravimetric method. See AOCS Ca 6a-40 and the COA interpreter.

Why unsaponifiable matter matters to buyers

For cosmetic buyers, unsaponifiable matter is the specification that distinguishes shea from a generic hard fat; for QC, an implausibly high value is an adulteration flag. Brands that market “shea” want the fraction intact — prefer unrefined Grade A. See uses of unrefined shea butter in cosmetics and notes for indie cosmetic brands.

Tocopherols and triterpenes contribute to oxidative stability — see peroxide value. A high fraction lowers SAP and leaves unsaponified material in a soap bar — see saponification value. Mineral oil is 100 % unsaponifiable: a result far above the shea range with a low SAP and high RI is an adulteration pattern, not “extra actives” — see refractive index and signs of adulterated shea butter.

What refining does to the fraction

Neutralisation removes free acids, not unsaponifiables. Bleaching removes some pigments and a little of the polar fraction. Deodorisation strips some tocopherols and volatiles. Net effect: a slight reduction; the bulk of the triterpene esters is retained. Refined N-RBD is still recognisably shea by unsaponifiables. See how shea butter is refined to N-RBD and refined N-RBD shea butter.

How EMI Agro reports unsaponifiable matter

EMI Agro states unsaponifiable matter on the Certificate of Analysis when the test is run for the batch. See Certifications & Quality and the sample Certificate of Analysis.

Saponification value is depressed by unsaponifiables. Refractive index is raised slightly by triterpenes. Peroxide value reflects the stability contribution of tocopherols. Iodine value measures the glyceride part and is unaffected by the fraction. Melting point is affected only slightly by crystallisation of the fraction.

Frequently asked questions

Last reviewed September 2026 by EMI Agro Industries QC team.

Manufacturer-direct from Ibadan, Nigeria

Specifying shea for its actives? See the measured value.

Tell us your minimum unsaponifiable matter and your application; we'll send a current Certificate of Analysis for Grade A unrefined or refined N-RBD with the measured value and method.

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