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Comparison

Shea Butter vs Kokum Butter

The hardest common plant butter against the most spreadable — why they are usually blended, and in what ratio.

Summary

Kokum butter is the hardest of the common plant butters — about 55–60 % stearic acid, melting at 38–42 °C, brittle and non-greasy — where shea is semi-soft, oleic-rich and spreads at skin temperature. Kokum adds firmness, a dry finish and resists graining, and is what formulators use to stiffen a soft shea body butter or bar. Shea supplies richness and 4–11 % unsaponifiables that kokum (0.5–2 %) lacks. They complement, not substitute: use 5–20 % kokum to firm shea; do not swap 1:1.

Shea Butter vs Kokum Butter at a glance

Shea butter vs kokum butter — published typical ranges. Shea butter values are published typical ranges consistent with EMI Agro's specification pages; measured batch values are stated on the COA.
PropertyShea butterReferenceKokum butter
Melting point32–45 °C[3][5]38–42 °C[1][3][2]
Texture / hardnessSemi-soft, creamy, spreads at skin temperature; can grain if cooled slowlyVery hard, brittle, non-greasy; dry finish
Fatty-acid profileoleic 40–55 %, stearic 35–45 %, linoleic 3–8 %, palmitic 3–7 %[3][5]stearic 55–60 %, oleic 35–40 %, palmitic 2–5 %, linoleic 1–2 %[1][3][2]
Unsaponifiables4–11 %[3][5]0.5–2 %[1][3][2]
Iodine value52–66 g I₂/100 g[3][5]33–37 g I₂/100 g[1][3][2]
Saponification value170–195 mg KOH/g[3][5]187–192 mg KOH/g[1][3][2]
Typical usesBody butters, hair care, soap, lip balm, CBE feedstock (refined), pharma excipientFirming agent in butters and bars, lotion bars, stick products, soap hardener, cocoa butter extender
Relative costReferenceHigher than shea — small, seasonal supply from western India
Shelf life
Sensory (odour / colour)Nutty to smoky (unrefined); neutral (refined N-RBD) / Ivory to yellow (unrefined); white to off-white (refined)Near-odourless (refined); faint earthy note (crude) / Off-white to pale grey-white

Kokum (Garcinia indica) seed fat is traded mainly from western India; commercial cosmetic grades are usually refined and near-odourless.

Hardness follows stearic acid — 55–60 % in kokum against 35–45 % in shea — and shows in melting point (38–42 °C versus 32–45 °C) and iodine value (33–37 versus 52–66). See melting point, iodine value and unsaponifiable matter. Shea keeps the 4–11 % unsaponifiable row; kokum is 0.5–2 %.

Kokum butter's hardness comes from stearic acid — roughly 55–60 % against shea butter's 35–45 %.

When to choose shea butter

  • The main body of any body butter, hair butter or balm that must spread and melt on skin.
  • Formulations specifying unsaponifiables.
  • Soap bases needing conditioning rather than maximum hardness.
  • Cost and volume: shea is available at container scale from West Africa; kokum supply is small and seasonal.
  • Any product where a nutty natural odour (unrefined) or a neutral base (refined N-RBD) is acceptable.

Shea butter is the body of the formulation; kokum butter is the structure. Keep shea as the main fat in any body butter, hair butter or balm that must spread and melt on skin, and whenever unsaponifiables are specified. In soap, shea conditions rather than maximising hardness — recalculate in the lye calculator. Shea is the container-scale West African fat; kokum supply is small and seasonal.

When to choose kokum butter

  • Firming lotion bars, deodorant sticks and stick balms without adding wax.
  • Stabilising soft butters against graining and slumping in warm climates.
  • A non-greasy, fast-absorbing finish in a small proportion of the butter phase.
  • Hard, long-lasting soap bars (high stearic).
  • Heat-stable cocoa-butter-extender applications (kokum gurgi is on the EU permitted list).

Choose kokum butter when a product must stand up in heat or hold a stick shape without wax. That is the lotion-bar, deodorant-stick and stick-balm brief, and the reason formulators add a little kokum to stop a soft shea butter slumping or graining in a warm climate. High stearic also makes a hard, long-lasting soap bar. Kokum gurgi is on the EU permitted vegetable-fat list for chocolate — see cocoa butter equivalent.

Can you substitute one for the other?

Partial. Add 5–10 % kokum to firm shea; 15–20 % for stick-firm; do not swap 1:1 in either direction.

Five to ten per cent kokum butter is usually enough to firm a soft shea butter formulation. Typical practice is 5–10 % of the butter phase for a noticeable change and 15–20 % for a stick-firm result. Do not exceed about 25 % without testing for brittleness and reduced spread. Replacing shea wholly with kokum gives a hard, waxy product that does not spread; replacing kokum wholly with shea loses the structure kokum was added for.

Soap saponification values sit close (170–195 versus 187–192 mg KOH/g) — recalculate lye anyway in the lye calculator.

Formulation notes

Melt kokum butter first, then add shea, and cool the blend quickly to limit graining. Kokum's high stearic content and uniform triglycerides make it far less prone to graining than shea; blending kokum into shea reduces that risk in the blend. Hardness for reference: kokum › cocoa › shea ≈ mango.

Refined kokum is near-odourless and off-white; unrefined shea is nutty and ivory–yellow. Kokum's iodine value of 33–37 gives it a long oxidative life; blending does not shorten shea's — the blend is limited by shea's free fatty acid and peroxide value at purchase. See peroxide value.

EMI Agro supplies unrefined Grade A and refined N-RBD shea butter; we do not supply kokum butter.

Frequently asked questions

Last reviewed September 2026 by EMI Agro Industries QC team.

Manufacturer-direct from Ibadan, Nigeria

Building a shea-based bar or butter? Start with the base.

EMI Agro supplies unrefined Grade A and refined N-RBD shea butter from Nigeria with a batch COA — the body of your formulation, at container scale.

You have just read Shea Butter vs Kokum Butter. The next step is a real lot from the factory that produces it — EMI Agro, with factory-direct pricing and a batch Certificate of Analysis.

  • Trusted manufacturer

    EMI Agro Industries Limited (RC 9364495) presses the butter in Ibadan — we are not a trading company.

  • Competitive factory-direct prices

    Quoted EXW, FOB or CIF — the buyer chooses. You pay the factory, not a chain of middlemen.

  • Export-ready supply

    We ship to European Union, United States, Canada, United Kingdom and Southeast Asia, China, India, Middle East, Latin America. Load ports: Apapa (Lagos) or Tin Can Island (Lagos).

  • Documented lots

    40 tonnes per week of finished shea butter, a Certificate of Analysis on every batch, NAFDAC registered and SON approved.